When it involves restaurants on Via Veneto, uh, I suggest Las Olas Boulevard. I want there to be more range. But broadly speaking, we get a river of pink sauce and a parade of pasta, pizza, and prosciutto, with a few giant meatballs, veal parm, grilled steaks, and shrimp thrown in. Three extra Italian restaurants have opened this year, bringing the total to 12 in a ten-block cluster: Piazza Italia (February), Tuscan Prime (May), and Talento (June). Venice of America, indeed.
The question for critics and discerning diners is: Do any of these newbies bring something exceptional, or are they just safe physical games to fill seats by imparting American overseas cuisine? And if these types of restaurants displace older, staler Italian eating places, is that progress?
Each of the trios jogs my memory of something already on Las Olas. Piazza Italia (at the previous Mangos website) is an active region similar to Louie Bossi, with astonishing antipasto platters and a lower back courtyard. Tuscan Prime (within the former domestic of Grille 401) has Timpano Italian Chophouse elements, however prettier and with higher food. Talento has shades of Caffe Europa, with desserts displayed in a glass case and a crowded bar scene (satisfied hour runs all night at Talento’s bar). Each has virtues. Here’s my rundown in order of choice. Be warned: None is cheap (hello, it’s Las Olas). it’strioo of new Italian restaurants on Las Olas Boulevard.
When it involves restaurants on Via Veneto, uh, I imply Las Olas Boulevard, I desire there has been extra range. But on the whole, we get a river of purple sauce and a parade of pasta, pizza, and prosciutto, with a few giant meatballs, veal parm, grilled steaks, and shrimp thrown in. Three extra Italian restaurants have opened this year, bringing the entire to twelve in a 10-block cluster: Piazza Italia (February), Tuscan Prime (May), and Talento (June). Venice of America, indeed.
The query for critics and discerning diners is: Do any of these rookies bring something specific to the table, or are they simply safe exercises in filling seats by supplyingAmerica’ssmostAmerica’soverseass delicacies? And if all these eating places do is displace older, staler Italian restaurants, is that progress?
Each trio strikes a chord in my memory of something already on Las Olas. Piazza Italia (on the previous Mangos website) is an active location. This is like Louie Bossi, with surprising antipasto platters and a lower back courtyard. Tuscan Prime (within the former home of Grille 401) has Timpano Italian Chophouse elements, but prettier and with higher meals. Talento has shades of Caffe Europa, with desserts displayed in a pitcher case and a crowded bar scene (satisfied hour runs all night atTalento’ss bar Talento’s’s (three 1/2 stars)
The latest of the bunch, Talento has quickly observed its footing with accelerated, easy meals that present flavor and finesse. The decor is minimalist, elegant, and contemporary, with white leather-based seats, horseshoe-shaped banquettes, and an LED waterfall wall isolating the bar from the eating room. The tables are well-spaced, so nobody feels cramped. The menu is big, perhaps too big, with pizzas, raw bar gadgets, appetizers, pasta, fish, meat, and a full menu for vegans (an exclusive and welcome touch). But diners will now not find fowl parm, Fettucine Alfredo, or many standard heavier Italian-American offerings. Talento targets something more delicate.
The eating place is sponsored by deep-pocketed enterprise companions Maurizio Tiarella and Sandro Picciurro, who owned the firstMcDonald’s Italy (Rome) long ago. A few years ago, Tiarella ate at Dal Maestro, a small Hallandale Beach restaurant close to Gulfstream Park. He was inspired by the husband-and-spouse crew who ran it, chef Luigi Criscuolo and supervisor Angela Gullotta.
Tiarella has given them a shot at the massive time. If my current meal is any indication, they’re facing as much challenge.
Housemade pasta show off precision and firmness that is a pleasure to devour, along with pappardelle with a corpulent wild boar ragout ($23), or with black desserts and elderly Parmigiano-Reggiano ($35). Snapper Crudo ($18), served over arugula with caperberries, shimmered with freshness. A simple salad of subject veggies ($10) became gently dressed with a wisp of bracing French dressing. Housemade desserts were diffused instead of sugary, such as tiramisu ($10) and airy, creamy profiteroles ($12).
Talento bills its delicacies a” “current Ita” i” n,” and the e “ti “g place has one ultra-2019 touch: the triple-digit entree. It is the primary Italian eating place on Las Olas to crack the $100 barrier: $120 for a Tomahawk rib-eye steak that the menu boasts”is “cooked to “per “ec” ion.” (Lobster” Bar” became the primary to cross the $100 plateau on Las Olas, with massive lobsters and a $120 porterhouse).
We ordered our medium-uncommon. The kitchen grilled it with magnificent precision, with a flavorful crust that turned into charred but no longer burnt, and a juicy, ruby-purple indoors. It featured a Brontosaurus-sized bone that could make Fred Flinstone proud and served on a cutting board unsliced (I didn’t think it became pto become resting to permit redistribution of juices). The platter arrived with roasted potatoes, grilled asparagus, mushrooms, sweet peppers, little piles of watercress, and a scattering of entire peppercorns. Simple, quiet, and delicious. And big enough to serve two or three.
My biggest quibble was with the wine provider. After an excellent day at the races, I ordered a 2012 Brunello di Montalcino Castello Romitorio ($275, no longer quite double markup on its $ 40 retail price). Our server, who regarded inexperienced and frightened ameal’smeal’s wmeal’shspecialsecials and went into a rote spiel “bout “we simp” est u” e the finest of el”ments,” fetch” d high” r glasses. Still, it took prompting from me to get the bottle decanted. She splashily poured the wine without delay into the lowest of the decanters instead of tilting it and pouring it gently in opposition to the facet to aerate it. Some better schooling is in order, But TalentI’salentI’s off to a splashy, superb beginning.
Talento, 1307 E. Las Olas Blvd., 754-206-4180, TalentoRestaurant.Com, 11:30 a.m.- 10:30 p.m. Daily. Reservations via smartphone and at OpenTable.Com. Expensive-very expensive; complete liquor with Italian-focused wine list; mild-to-loud noise degree; patio seating, ground level for wheelchair access; metered street parking or nearby masses.
